Hey there. So you’re curious about building a custom keyboard? Nice. You’re in for a ride, but the good kind — like customizing your own pizza, but for typing. The reason most people take this route is pretty simple: comfort, style, and that sweet, satisfying click-clack sound.
A custom keyboard isn’t just about looks either (although it’s part of the fun). It’s about performance, ergonomics, and sometimes even a sense of identity. You’re typing on this thing every day — might as well make it feel like yours.
Think about it. Off-the-shelf keyboards are usually made for the masses. Building your own lets you tailor everything — how the keys feel, how loud they sound, even how tall the keyboard sits on your desk. Want it wireless? You got it. Prefer it wired with RGB disco lights? Go nuts.
Also, there’s this weird satisfaction in using something you built with your own hands. You know all the parts, all the quirks, and yeah, if something breaks, you’ll probably know how to fix it.
Here’s a simple sketch to show you what sets a custom keyboard apart:

Alright, you hyped yet? Cool. Let’s get into the planning phase.
Planning Your Keyboard
Before anything else, you’ve got to plan. Like, sit down and really figure out what you want. Think of this step like a blueprint for your dream typing machine.
Are you a gamer? A coder? Someone who just wants a quiet keyboard at the office? Your usage really drives everything — from layout to components.
You don’t want to start buying stuff and then realize you forgot the stabilizers or got switches that don’t fit your board. That’s the heartbreak we’re trying to avoid.
Let’s break this down a bit.
Choosing the Layout
Layouts are the skeleton of your keyboard. They define the shape and key count.
Here are your basic choices:
- Full Size (104 keys): Everything’s there — number pad, function row, etc.
- TKL (Tenkeyless): No number pad.
- 75%, 65%, 60%: Smaller and more compact.
- Split/Ergo Layouts: Two halves, often curved for comfort.
And if you’re wondering exactly how many switches fit on a 75% board, check out our detailed breakdown of How many switches are in a 75% keyboard.
Your layout choice depends on space, typing comfort, and what keys you actually use. If you never touch your number pad, ditch it. Want more desk space for a mouse or tablet? Go compact.
Here’s a layout comparison:

Pick what suits your workflow. No right or wrong here — just what feels right.
Picking the Right Components
You’ll need:
- Switches (clicky, tactile, linear)
- Keycaps (profile, material, legends)
- PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
- Case (plastic, metal, acrylic)
- Plate (optional, adds stiffness)
- Stabilizers (for big keys like Space and Enter)
- USB cable or battery (depending on wired/wireless)
Let’s not forget: compatibility is key. Not all switches fit all PCBs. Not all cases accept all plates. It’s a bit like LEGO, but with more acronyms.

If this part feels overwhelming, don’t worry — once you handle each piece, it starts to make sense. Let’s move on.
Gathering Tools and Materials
Okay, you’ve planned out your dream board. Now it’s time to gear up. The tools you’ll need depend on whether you’re going solderless (hot-swap PCB) or doing a full solder build.
Basic Tools:
- Keycap/switch puller
- Small Phillips screwdriver
- Tweezers (trust me)
- Microfiber cloth
If soldering:
- Soldering iron (not too hot)
- Solder wire (get the good stuff)
- Solder sucker or wick (for oopsies)
Optional but nice:
- Lubing station for switches
- Brushes for cleaning
- Switch opener
- Anti-static mat
You can find kits online that bundle tools together. Not necessary, but helpful. Honestly, once you start building keyboards, the tools kind of collect themselves over time.

Don’t skip this part. A good setup makes the whole process smoother.
Assembling the Keyboard
Now we’re getting to the fun part. Assembly is where your plans turn into reality. Take your time. Be patient. It’s okay to mess up — that’s part of the process.
Let’s break it into manageable pieces.
Installing Switches
If you have a hot-swappable PCB, installing switches is as simple as pushing them in. You’ll hear a satisfying click when they’re seated correctly.
But first, test fit a few switches to make sure the pins are straight. Bent pins won’t make contact and can damage the PCB.
Tips:
- Align pins before pressing
- Insert slowly to avoid bent legs
- Use a switch plate for extra stability

Try a few before going full steam. Once they’re all in, give each one a little wiggle — they should feel secure.
Mounting the PCB
The PCB is the brain of the board. It’s what tells your computer what each keystroke means.
Mounting it involves placing it inside your case and securing it with screws or clips. If you’re using a plate, the switches may already hold everything tight.
Watch for:
- No wires or screws pressing on components
- Even spacing
- Clearance from case walls

Once mounted, it should feel snug but not forced. Like a well-fitted shoe.
Soldering (If Needed)
Soldering is where the magic happens. It connects each switch to the PCB. If you’ve never soldered before — don’t panic. It’s basically melting a tiny bit of metal to glue things electrically.
Soldering Steps:
- Heat the iron.
- Touch it to the pin and pad.
- Feed a bit of solder.
- Pull back.

Not perfect? No problem. Reheat and try again. Mistakes happen. Just take breaks and keep calm.
Programming Your Keyboard
Alright, your keyboard is physically done, but now you’ve got to teach it how to think. This part sounds intense, but it’s actually pretty fun. You’re basically deciding what each key does — and if you want, you can get real creative.
Most custom boards use firmware like QMK or VIA. VIA is beginner-friendly with a graphical interface, while QMK gives you deep control through code. If that sentence gave you anxiety, start with VIA.
Here’s how to program using VIA:
- Plug in your keyboard via USB.
- Open the VIA web app or desktop client.
- Your board should be auto-detected (if it’s VIA-compatible).
- Click a key → Assign it any function you want.
Yup. You can:
- Remap keys (make Caps Lock a Ctrl key? Yes.)
- Create macros (press one key to launch Spotify)
- Add multiple layers (gaming mode, work mode, you name it)
VIA Layout Example

You can even do per-key RGB settings, if your board supports it.
Tip: Don’t go wild at first. Make small changes and test them. If you get stuck, reset the board to default in VIA and breathe.
You’re the boss now. Want a volume knob? Set one. Want emoji keys? Yep, that’s a thing. This is the part where your keyboard truly becomes yours.
Testing and Troubleshooting
You’ve plugged it in, programmed your layout, and now… uh oh. One key isn’t working? No worries, it happens. Welcome to the debugging phase.
This step is all about testing each key and fixing any misbehaving parts.
Testing Tools:
- KeyboardTester.com
- VIA’s built-in test mode
- Typing in a text editor
Just go through and press every single key. They should light up or register input. If one doesn’t, here’s what might be wrong:
- Switch not seated properly → pull it out, check pins, reinsert.
- Cold solder joint → reheat with soldering iron.
- Wrong mapping → check your VIA layout.
- PCB damage (rare) → this one’s rough, but sometimes boards come faulty.

Most issues can be fixed with a little patience and testing. Don’t let one rogue key ruin the magic — you got this.
Final Touches and Customization
Last stretch, my friend. Now it’s time to take your custom keyboard from “cool” to “damn, where’d you get that?”
Here’s where you can get fancy:
- Keycaps: Go wild. Colors, themes, custom fonts. This is your keyboard’s outfit.
- Case Mods: Add foam, dampeners, even stickers or paint if you’re feeling artsy.
- RGB Settings: Per-key colors, effects, or set everything to soft white — your call.
- Cable upgrade: Custom coiled cables in matching colors? Chef’s kiss.
- Sound tuning: Foam mats or lube can dramatically change how your board sounds.

Now step back and admire it.
You built a keyboard. Not just a keyboard — your keyboard. One that feels right, sounds right, and just works for you.
And you know what the best part is? You’ll probably want to build another one. It’s a slippery slope, my friend — but a satisfying one.